Satok Market, Kuching

November 6, 2011

in Kuching trip 2011, Markets, malaysia kitchen

It’s been a fantastic morning, with a visit to Petanak Wet Market, followed by Swee Kang Ais Kacang and Kuching’s most famous banana fritter stall. But there’s more to come. In the afternoon, it’s time for a Malaysian cooking class.

Our class begins with a trip to Satok Market where we buy ingredients for the dishes we’re about to cook. We’re each given a woven basket like what the Dayak people traditionally use (which, let’s face it, immediately identifies us as tourists :)). Kuching tour guide Joseph gives us a guided tour and we load up our baskets with fresh produce as we move through the market. I’m glad I’m not the one who ends up carrying the heavy poky pineapples.

We pull up outside the market and soon as we open the bus door I smell it… glorious, pungent durian.

Durians, RM$5 each

Durians, RM$5 each

Serious durian selection process taking place

Serious durian selection process taking place

The durian sorter's stance

The durian sorter’s stance

As we walk towards the covered market stalls, the air smells of the sweet, ripe tropical fruit that is in abundance.

Bananas, papayas, pineapples, oranges

Bananas, papayas, pineapples, oranges

I have stumbled into Banana Land!

Bananas and melons

Bananas and melons

Australian banana growers have had a tough year with Cyclone Yasi in Queensland (where most of our bananas are grown) and floods in the North West of Western Australia flattening whole plantations and destroying three quarters of Australia’s banana crops. During the year, the price of bananas went up as high at AU$15 a kilogram. At the time I was in Kuching, I had been banana-deprived for many months, so you can imagine my excitement to see beautiful ripe plump bananas for sale in Kuching at RM2 a kilogram – that’s around AU60 cents a kilo, unheard of in Australia, even without flood-affected prices. It’s taken months for the Australian banana industry to recover, but prices have begun to become affordable again across Australia and we’re back to including bananas on our grocery shopping list.

Bananas

Bananas

Bananas and melons

Bananas and melons

But as I mentioned in my post about Kuching’s most famous banana fritter stall, Malaysian bananas are so much sweeter than the ones I eat back home.

More bananas!

More bananas!

I think these are the bananas they call “pisang tanduk” – “tanduk” means “horn” (as in cow horn, buffalo horn) in Malay.

Bananas

Bananas

Bananas, jackfruit, papaya, langsat

Bananas, jackfruit, papaya, langsat

The colours of the fresh produce at Satok Market are truly a feast for the eyes.

Satok Market

Satok Market

Arranging chillies on a saucer

Arranging chillies on a saucer

Chillies

Chillies

Chillies

Chillies

Such colourful fresh produce!

Such colourful fresh produce!

Beautiful shiny tomatoes

Beautiful shiny tomatoes

There is work being done at the stalls, including the peeling of galangal and the sorting and bundling of snake beans ready for sale.

Peeling fresh galangal

Peeling fresh galangal

Bundling up snake beans for sale

Bundling up snake beans for sale

Ginger flowers, which I have never seen before

Ginger flowers, which I have never seen before

Time for a smoko

Time for a smoko

The smell of the dried fish, shrimp and anchovies remind me of my childhood.

Dried fish and shrimps

Dried fish and shrimps

Dried anchovies

Dried anchovies

Cabbage appraisal

Cabbage appraisal

You can’t see it in the photo, but this woman was engrossed in reading her newspaper.

Minding the stall, reading the newspaper

Minding the stall, reading the newspaper

More dried fish and anchovies

More dried fish and anchovies

The rempah man sells fragrantly spicy sambal and curry pastes. You can buy as much paste as you need, by weight, or choose one of the prepackaged pastes.

The rempah man, who sells curry pastes and sambal

The rempah man, who sells curry pastes and sambal

We reach the wet section of the market where whole birds are on display at the chicken stall.

Chicken stall

Chicken stall

It’s warm in the undercover market and as we tread carefully through the wet section, the scent of raw poultry and fish are strong.

We’ll be cooking rendang ayam (chicken rendang), but one of our group does not eat chicken, so we make a stop to buy some fresh fish for her fish curry.

Your friendly neighbourhood fishmonger

Your friendly neighbourhood fishmonger

This fishmonger is pretty proud of his river king prawns – these are like the large prawns fried in butter and garlic that we enjoyed at Top Spot food court the night before.

River king prawns

River king prawns

Just as I did at Petanak Wet Market, I marvel at the different species of fish for sale, many of which I can’t identify.

Many varieties of fish

Many varieties of fish

Many varieties of fish

Many varieties of fish

Fish

Fish

Is this fine red fellow a red emperor?

Is this fine red fellow a red emperor?

More fish - hairtail in the foreground on the left

More fish – hairtail in the foreground on the left”

We buy some mackerel for the fish curry, which the fishmonger chops into pieces upon request.

Slicing up a mackerel

Slicing up a mackerel

Adding ice to the fish to keep it cool

Adding ice to the fish to keep it cool

Wellington boots are the footwear of choice at the fish market

Wellington boots are the footwear of choice at the fish market

Amidst all the activity, there’s a spot for a nap.

Catching a nap

Catching a nap

There is more seafood and other fresh produce at shops across the road.

More fresh produce at shops across the road

More fresh produce at shops across the road

With our baskets full of fresh ingredients, it’s time for our cooking class…

Happy shoppers heading home

Happy shoppers heading home

Satok Market
Jalan Satok, Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia
Telephone: +60 82-246 575 ‎

Map of Satok Market - click for larger map
Click for larger map

TFP visited Kuching, Malaysia as a guest of Malaysia Kitchen, MATRADE and Tourism Malaysia.

Read the posts in my Kuching Trip 2011 series
There are more Kuching posts to come.

I’m currently on holiday in Sydney and having fun, taking lots of photographs and eating great food. While I’m away, The best way to keep up to date, get your daily dose of TFP and join in discussions is to follow me on Twitter, visit/like my page on Facebook or check the Twitter and Facebook widgets in the right sidebar on any page of this blog.

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{ 16 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Megan November 6, 2011 at 7:13 am

Loved this post, especially banana land! I live in the US, and even though bananas are plentiful and cheap here, I’ve never been fond of them. However, whenever I go to Asia, I love to eat the bananas there — I agree that over there, they just have a differently flavor entirely! I especially like the little finger bananas (don’t know what they’re called, but they’re all over the markets in Hong Kong).

Reply

2 TFP November 17, 2011 at 5:50 pm

Cheers Megan, glad you enjoyed it.
Those little bananas are among my all-time favourite fruits. I salivate at the thought of them! :)

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3 Dea November 6, 2011 at 3:12 pm

Ginger flowers have always been a favourite of mine. I like that they don’t seem delicate, and come in that vibrant pink colour. Simply gorgeous! What I really love about living in the Southeast Asian tropics is that I can eat my fill of tropical fruit without spending a bomb. Not just the usual papaya, watermelon and pineapple, but I really enjoy fruits like jambu air, duku langsat, guava, jackfruit and mangosteen!

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4 TFP November 17, 2011 at 5:52 pm

Dea,
I dearly miss having access to the whole range of fresh tropical fruits. My favourites are pisang emas, jackfruit, papaya, rambutan, and of course, durian.

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5 Cindy November 9, 2011 at 2:59 am

All those durians! I think “Ouch.” Wouldn’t want to accidentally step nor fall onto any of them. ;-) Bananas galore! Wow. Yes, the produce is very colorful. I definitely recognize the red chile peppers; one variety in particular is grown here. I can’t quite get used to dried fish. But we’re landlocked. I’ve only had dried prawns (the little ones). Someone sleeping on the job. ;-) He looks comfortable. The heat and humidity must be awful to contend with, even if you’re used to it.

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6 TFP November 17, 2011 at 5:55 pm

Cindy,
Hahaha, yes – lots of ouch there! :) I guess you could tell I had a great time pointing my camera at everything I saw! :D
I’m not fond of humidity – I hate feeling constantly sweaty and dirty, my clothes clinging to me. Good thing I was too busy having fun to get cranky about it.

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7 Ayden @ Himalayan Salt November 11, 2011 at 10:14 am

Wow, bananas went to $15? and I was telling people that $10 was way too much.

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8 TFP November 11, 2011 at 10:22 am

Ayden,
Yep. Some years ago after Cyclone Larry bananas cost even more than that per kilo for a while. Pretty tough times for banana growers and banana lovers.

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9 Karene November 14, 2011 at 7:00 pm

Hey TFP!
I think i saw you today at Carousel! just outside the post office. I walked past you and thought u looked familiar.. and when i realised that it was you, i had already walked outside towards my car. next time i see you i’ll definitely say hi!

Reply

10 TFP November 15, 2011 at 7:37 am

Karene,
Eek, sprung! :) Yep – that was probably me as I was at Carousel!

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11 Nate @ House of Annie November 15, 2011 at 10:57 pm

You got some great pictures at Satok. We always go in the afternoon, and the lighting isn’t so good.

Are you sure those are langsat in the picture with the bananas, jackfruit and papayas?

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12 TFP November 16, 2011 at 5:02 am

Nate,
Hmm…I was told they were langsat, maybe they’re not after all. Happy to correct if they are something else.

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13 Nate @ House of Annie November 17, 2011 at 10:39 am

The yellowish ones definitely are not langsat. The brownish ones could be langsat, but they look awfully old and moldy to me. Fresh ones should be cleaner.

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14 nadia November 20, 2011 at 9:52 pm

those aren’t langsat at all. should be some sort of forest fruit cause they rarely sell langsat in a hanging bunch in kuching :)

reading your post made me miss home :( :P

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15 msihua November 16, 2011 at 7:58 pm

YOU GUYS HAD DURIAN!!! Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa…. *sigh* so would have loved to have made it :(

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16 TFP November 17, 2011 at 5:57 pm

msihua,
Yes… you’d have had a great time. I’m sorry you missed out. Funnily enough I just got back from Sydney and I reckon I ate more durian there than I did in Kuching! But nothing’s as good as fresh out of the spiky shell, of course. :)

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